Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
